Why the bread is ready at seven
The overnight schedule behind our first loaves on Wickett Street.
At 11 pm, Mara Bell weighs flour, water, salt and the sourdough starter refreshed that afternoon. Tuesday dough starts on Monday night, while the café is closed. A batch makes 18 loaves of 800 g each.
Before the oven
The dough rests for 30 minutes before the salt goes in. Mara folds it at midnight, 12:30 and 1 am, then leaves it until it feels lighter and holds bubbles along the edges. The clock is a guide; a cold room can add half an hour.
At about 3 am, she divides and shapes the loaves. They rise in baskets while she portions pastry dough and heats the oven. The first bread goes in at 5:30 and bakes for about 45 minutes.
Time on the rack
The loaves cool on wire racks so steam can leave the crumb. Theo Grant arrives at 6:15 to set the counter, make coffee and label the bakes. On Tuesday through Friday, the door opens at 7 am. Saturday and Sunday opening is 8 am, so the overnight schedule starts an hour later.